Do you remember the ‘80s? New Wave was reigning in the worlds of music and fashion. Boundaries were being shattered and the ubiquitous experimentation in artistic and cultural arenas was turning their every patron into an avant-gardiste. And among the flock of rockers, disco royalty, the Westwoods and Muglers, one voice stood in the league of its own. It was the voice of Dr. Pam Hogg, a rockstar, romantic renegade and fashion visionary. Through the decades, Hogg’s multidisciplinary works have, inadvertently perhaps, become the epitome of anti-commercial and anti-capitalistic artistic expression in its purest form.
A flair for fashion design was present within Hogg since the age of six, back when she was “making clothes from hand-me-downs”, “but it wasn't until I had the task of getting past the scrutiny of Steve Strange at the door of the Blitz club [in the] late 70s that I picked it up again,” says Hogg. She then taught herself fashion design and, once the orders started coming in, the passion turned into a business. The self-taught designer opened her first store in Newburgh Street in the ‘80s. Years later her designs would be worn by the likes of Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Lady Gaga and Blondie.
VALUES /// PROBLEMS
What are three fundamental values that you would like to embrace throughout your career, that you pay special attention to during your work?
What are three relevant problems that you wish to solve or improve with the help of your work?
The art of business, someone to take care of that side would be ideal.
With the above I'd be able to create structure to move forward.
STATES OF SUCCESS, Faint
What inspired you to combine music with fashion?
I've always loved both, it was natural.
In the early aughts, Hogg was among the few artist to harness the power of then-infant social media to reach the next level. The videos ‘Opal Eyes’ and ‘Electriocman’, created in collaboration with Siouxie Sioux and Alison Mosshart were shared on Youtube and MySpace, resulting in a whole new demographic being exposed to Hogg’s art and resulting in recognition by the both emerging and veteran media.
Do you think fashion should be political?
For me it always has been in some way.
I’m aware, therefore it weaves consciously and unconsciously through my work.
Who would you say was your style icon during your early years?
I don't really have one.
What is radical acceptance to you? I had to look that up.
What do you think are the responsibilities every artist should have?
To be true to your work, your ideals, to keep your values, to hold firm to your vision.
When it comes to artistic expression, do you think there are themes that are taboo?
Nothing I can think of.
Pam Hogg answers questions related to our #PSYCHE campaign
How do your collections affect your music or vice versa?
As I'm working I sense the music I'll play during my show. I compile it in my head as the collection evolves. If I start with a theme, the music is established early on.
Does looking outside of your environment help your creative process more than staying within your circle? Why?
I work without restriction. It flows from thought to the work no matter my situation. I don’t sketch, even though I've had prize winning awards in this area, for me it's an unorthodox process, I feel rather than think, sometimes my best work is when I'm not “thinking”.
What is your definition of success?
Once I'm satisfied with what has arrived within my imposed timeframe, there’s always a feeling of wishing I could have done more. At moments during the process though, I have a sense of elation when the puzzle starts to fall into place. At that point, I recognise that the pleasure I feel will connect with the outside world.
Do you think success always goes hand-in-hand with ambitions?
I don't believe success should ever be the forethought. Ambition for me is to constantly find a way to express what's inside of me, to find a way of giving something new, something that could perhaps touch someone.
Many believe that success as we know it is an idea created to fuel capitalism, would you agree with this statement? Why or why not?
This question is an anathema to me, and probably why I'm not “successful” in monetary terms. Capital is the very last thing I think about.
This following interview contributes to a new media format, where Creatives are in full control of their narratives. By exploring alternatives to narrative journalism, GAHSP starts unconventional conversations, emphasizing values and problems that shape our lives collectively.
Written and Edited by Gennady Oreshkin
Creative Concept by Julia Horvath
Image Courtesy of Pam Hogg